Monday, 23 November 2009

Pichelemu & Santa Cruz

Or: Here comes the sun... but we've got colds

This is a direct result of having told our mothers that we've not been ill at all. The next day we both had little colds. Before you overwhelm us with sympathy, it means we are sniffing a bit and sneezing a bit. Nothing drastic.

So, Pichelemu, surfing capital of Chile. Gorgeous beaches, slightly odd town (overrun with teenagers, full of angst), and site of another great cabaƱa for us to stay in with sea views from our veranda.

Even better, the beach was full of interesting stuff that had been washed up or lived there, namely:
  • massive, dead crabs, everywhere
  • a long line (100m ish) of fish heads (no sign of the bodies - makes you a bit scared about what it was that bit them off)
  • massive sea-weed, longer than us
  • clams, mussels, shells
  • Pelicans
  • sea gulls and other more interesting sea birds
  • One single solitary sea-lion
  • surfers of varying ability ranging from Martin to Chilean surf gods
  • girls watching the surfers
  • usual host of stray dogs (including a doggy orgy taking place on the beach. Quite disturbing.)

We've moved on to the sleepy town of Santa Cruz, which is the heart of the wine region. The town was nicely summed up by our hostal owner, who on our arrival said "Pero hay nada aqui, nada" "But there is nothing here, nothing". Closely followed by "Y todo es muy caro, muy caro" "And everything is very expensive".

However, following his tips, pretending to be students we got a 75% discount off the regional museum entry. It was a great museum, in an old colonial hacienda. However, it did feel like each display area was there because someone had gone "Look, I've got some really cool old guns. I know! Let's have a weapons room! Oh, I've found some cool fossils! Let's have a fossil room too. But where can I put my old cars... mmmm.... will this fit in with the steam train engine and carriage I also have? Maybe they can go next to the life size replica of the indigenous people's hut...mmm, right next to the display on farming equipment...."

In the interest of saving money, our hostal owner also sent us to the local canteen style restaurant. While the cuisine is nothing to write home about (powdered mash - who knew it still existed!) it's well worth a visit as it serves a large 3 course lunch for about 2.50 each, and we were lucky enough to be surrounded by the local campaign workers trying to elect Eduardo Frei as the next President of Chile. (we're very au fait with the elections now).

Having met fellow travellers who warned us that internet in New Zealand is exorbitant, we're making the most of Chile's cheap internet before heading out this afternoon on the tight wad wine tour. No! We are not paying 100 US dollars for a wine tour! No. our hostal owner has organised a collectivo (shared taxi) to do the job for us and take us to some other vineyards. It's still pricey, but hey, why not?

1 comment:

  1. Marguerite (Mama)23 November 2009 at 19:46

    It all looks so exqusite - I can't remember whether that's in your vocabulary list below somewhere! So you're not only travelling but learning about political persuasion in these countries as well! Great stuff! Now I hope I can still remember how to post this so here goes!

    ReplyDelete